- Air Pressure
As you probably know, regularly checking your tire pressure will increase both the life of your tires and the way they perform. The immediate benefit: increased safety. The long-term benefit: they last longer and you save money.
Over-inflation can decrease traction and may cause rapid and irregular wear.
Under-inflation can damage the tire structure itself, and it also creates wear.
Maintain the air pressure recommended by your vehicle manufacturer or the tire manufacturer.
Tires are quite remarkable. They stay pliable and comfortable and grip the road for tens of thousands of miles. Proper air pressure allows the tire to function as designed.
- Avoiding Rubber Cracks in Your Tires
Don"t let your tires wear down before they have to! Protecting your tires from cracking will enhance the life longevity of your tires. Tires are some of the most vulnerable consumer products on the market. They must hold up under harsh weather conditions, extreme friction, road debris and heavy weight. Tires are designed with chemical compounds that maintain strength. Still, certain conditions cause them to wear down faster than necessary.
Over time, tires naturally break down as they are exposed to the elements. As tires spin around and around, they stretch and pull against the road. Eventually they begin to lose some of their elasticity. They become stiff and vulnerable to rubber cracks. Small cracks will begin to develop along the sidewalls and at the base of the tire"s tread. Shallow cracks are considered to be harmless; however, if the cracks begin to deepen beneath the outer layer of the rubber, it"s best to have the tire replaced.
There are preventative methods to help reduce tire rubber cracking. One of the biggest causes of premature cracking is too much exposure to the sun"s heat. Keeping your vehicle parked indoors, or keeping it covered outside will definitely help prevent rubber cracks. Driving without the proper air pressure in your tires can also stretch your tires out, which causes them to age, as the rubber quickly breaks down. Excessively washing your wheels and tires with certain chemical cleaners will also dry tires out, making them vulnerable to cracks. Lastly, it"s important that you USE your tires! If you leave your vehicle parked for long periods of time without use, it will diminish tire elasticity. Tires need to be used and stretched frequently in order to maintain the flexibility that keeps them from becoming stiff and cracking.
- Break in your new tires
You might be surprised to learn that you should take a little time to break in your new tires. It"s a good idea to be extra careful for the first 500 miles. Please drive cautiously even though you might have the urge to do quite the opposite because of your new tires. No careening around turns. No jackrabbit starts.
For two reasons:
During the manufacturing process, a small layer of lubricant is painted on the tires so they won"t stick to the tire mold. By the time you get those tires, a small amount of that lubricant will still remain, and that small amount can reduce traction until it wears off.
Also, when your tires are new, their responsiveness will probably be a little slower than your old worn out tires. That"s because new deeper tread depths compress and hold the road tighter than your old tire. That slows your tire"s reaction by a small amount.
You should always be careful behind the wheel of your car, but for the first 500 miles you should be extra cautious.. By then the lubricant should be gone, and you will be more accustomed to the way your tires respond,
- Comparing Price Vs. Value When Tire Shopping
It"s pretty typical to be in the dark when it comes to choosing tires. There are a ton of tire brands in the tires-easy shop, and most of them offer quite a range of styles and pricing. You"re probably asking yourself whether or not it"s worth it to spend extra money on high-end tires, or if you"d be perfectly happy going with a less expensive option. Your car or truck will likely be running on the tires you choose for a few years at least. Considering price vs. value is important in figuring out what will work best for your tire needs.
You probably think that higher priced tires last longer than lower priced tires. This, however, isn"t always the case. Scientists, for example, have designed specific microscopic compounds of ground silica that they impregnate into the tire rubber. This technology is applied to certain performance tires to increase tire performance by allowing tires to get a better grip on the road, gracefully corner at faster speeds, and hold performance integrity in both cold and warm weather. In fact, all-season tires and winter tires also have high silica content so they don"t harden and get brittle in icy weather. This technology offers better performance because silica adds a soft quality to tires, which means that tires with a higher silica content can actually break down quicker then all rubber tires. For example, the highest priced tires for sports cars allow for maximum performance by really grabbing the road, but you can guess what happens if they grab the road closely. They wear out much faster. So in that case, the consumer spends much more money for a high-quality product that only lasts a short while, but believes it is worthwhile for the added performance.
Rubber compounds alone also vary with price. Even if you"re not choosing between a tire with or without silica, the rubber compounds of the tire can drastically affect tire quality and price. Higher priced tires are usually thicker, offering more durability for people who tend to be hard on their vehicles.
With all this in mind, carefully considering your own personal vehicle needs, driving style and budget will help you select tires that are right for you vehicle.
You can"t always judge tire quality by its price. Tires-easy offers many tires at great prices because we buy overstock on the spot market at exceptional prices, and we buy high quality tires from brands that are new to the market and haven"t yet spent a lot of money on advertising and publicity. When you search for a tire on the tires-easy website, make sure you read the tire description to learn more about the tire.
- Hydroplaning and Tires
Be careful not to hydroplane on the road! Hydroplaning, also called aquaplaning, is often the cause of serious road accidents. As a driver, it"s important to take every precaution to avoid losing control of your vehicle in the rain.
Hydroplaning happens when layers of water gather between the rubber tires of your vehicle and the road"s surface. No more traction. No more brakes, steering and acceleration. Suddenly, your car is now water skiing! As you can imagine, hydroplaning at high speeds can leave you completely out of control and in great danger to yourself and others.
The perfect storm leading to hydroplaning is a deadly mix of vehicle speed, water depth, vehicle weight, tire width and tire tread. Slowing down your vehicle and avoiding large puddles helps to keep you safe. Having the right tires helps prevent hydroplaning as well.
The best tires intended to prevent hydroplaning have a carefully designed tread known as directional tread design. On these tires, multiple tread grooves connect with a repetitive "V" shape. This "V" shape is used to push water out from underneath the tire, maintaining the tire tread to road contact. The "V" design forces water forward and out to the sides of the tire. This is especially effective when used on wider tires.
- Identify Your Tire Size / Reading Tire Markings
You will find your tire size on your tire"s sidewall. If you don"t have a special wheel package on your car, you can also find it on our website, www.tires-easy.com.
Choose Search by car model and click on the drop-down menu.
Each of our tires are listed with a string of numbers and letters.
Here"s an example: 205/55R16 82H
| 205 | The tire width in millimeters |
| 55 | The aspect ratio (height of a sidewall section divided by the tire"s width) |
| R | The tire"s construction type - in this case it"s a radial |
| 16 | Rim diameter in inches |
| 82 | Load Index |
| H | Speed Rating |
You will find further information on Load Index and Speed Ratings, UTQG ratings, Winter Tires, and D.O.T. certification in other sections of the tires-easy Knowledge Center.
The Aspect Ratio
The aspect ratio is the relationship of a tire"s sidewall section to its width. The larger the aspect ratio, the taller the sidewall. The smaller the aspect ratio, the shorter the sidewall.
But there"s more to it than just looks.
When the aspect ratio is higher, the tire deflects more weight and the ride is softer. When the aspect ratio is lower, tires are less flexible and not quite so comfortable, but they provide quicker response.
Vehicle Class
Sometimes you will find vehicle class markings on the tires as well, which indicate the intended use of the tire:
| Vehicle Class Marking | Explanation |
| P | P-metric Passenger Car tire |
| LT | Light Truck tire |
| ST | Special Trailer tire - not for use on passenger vehicles. |
- Installing Your Wheels and Tire Packages
Installing tires and wheels correctly on your vehicle, will make your every drive a pleasant and safe one. Be it directional or asymmetric tire, make sure you check and position the tire the right way. We recommend setting every wheel and tire around your vehicle, so as to avoid mistakes. You should always install the new pair tires on the rear, and move the worn ones to the front, to keep stability on wet roads. Take into consideration the advice of a fitter, in case your vehicle requires different sizes.
Directional tires are designed to rotate in one direction only. The direction is indicated by the rotation arrow. Asymmetric tires can be used in any position on the vehicle by following wording such as "inside" and "outside" on the tire"s sidewall.
Directional and asymmetric tire carry markings on the sidewall which show the correct direction of rotation and identify the side facing outwards. Before installing the tires, test fit each wheel in its final position! The owner"s manual must provide you with the information for tire and wheel removal. We recommend the use of a four-way wrench or a socket on a breaker bar when removing lug nuts or bolts. Take into consideration the following:
- Always check the state of the vehicle"s lug studs or wheel bolts, while loosening them, before reinstalling the wheels.
- Wheels have to fit flat against the vehicle"s hubs.
- Do eliminate any devices such as stud clips, any rust and dirt from the hubs of brake rotors and drums. The large bolds holding Hyundai rotors need no removal!
- Make sure the last wheel"s hub centering rings have been removed from the hubs, in case aftermarket wheels have been first used on the vehicle.
- If having drum brakes on the vehicle, verify that the wheel seats on the hub are not against the drum"s outer flange or balance weights.
- Is it okay to put Passenger Tires on your Truck?
The simple answer is no.
It is unsafe to mount passenger tires on a light truck. Furthermore, you will find that your truck performs better with the right tires. Light truck tires are built to carry the extra weight of a loaded truck, with rigid sidewalls and heavier construction than passenger car tires. They tolerate the extra pressures on the road, when carrying a load or towing another vehicle, and they give you, the driver, far more control.
Passenger tires are designed for comfort, lower noise, and better fuel economy. And sometimes for their looks. But they are not safe on your truck because they are not rated for the extra weight and not built for the extra stress.
That"s the simple answer, and it"s a safe rule of thumb to follow.
But there are some complications:
Many minivans, some truck-based SUVs, and some crossover vehicles come with OE P-metric tires that were chosen by the manufacturer because they had strong enough characteristics to meet the requirements of those cars. In such cases, you have a choice when you replace your original tires: 1) you can replace them with the identical original equipment tire that was chosen by the manufacturer, or 2) you can replace them with tires that are designated light truck tires.
There are also people who don"t use their trucks as trucks. They don"t haul anything. They don"t tow anything. They just use their trucks for transportation. Is it okay to put passenger tires on those vehicles?
We don"t recommend it.
If you have a truck, it is very likely that sometimes it really will be used as a truck, and you will load it with cargo. When that happens, you need the correct tires for safety.
- Load Range/ Ply Rating Identifications
"Load range" is a term that is synonymous with the term "ply rating" and is gradually replacing it. It relates to the actual load carrying capacity of the tire. The term refers to a specific tire with its maximum load as used in specific ways. Basically it is an index of tire strength and is expressed as a letter. The higher along the alphabet (A, B, C and up), the higher its load rating will be:
| Load Range | Ply Rating / Load Pressure |
| B | 4/35 |
| C | 6/50 |
| D | 8/65 |
| E | 10/80 |
| F | 12/95 |
The load-index figures imprinted on the sidewall of the tire denote the maximum load capacity of a tire when driven at a maximum speed. The list of load indices and corresponding maximum speeds are listed below:
| Li | kg | Li | kg |
| 65 | 290 | 94 | 670 |
| 66 | 300 | 95 | 690 |
| 67 | 307 | 96 | 710 |
| 68 | 315 | 97 | 730 |
| 69 | 325 | 98 | 750 |
| 70 | 335 | 99 | 775 |
| 71 | 345 | 100 | 800 |
| 72 | 355 | 101 | 825 |
| 73 | 365 | 102 | 850 |
| 74 | 375 | 103 | 875 |
| 75 | 387 | 104 | 900 |
| 76 | 400 | 105 | 925 |
| 77 | 412 | 106 | 950 |
| 78 | 425 | 107 | 975 |
| 79 | 237 | 108 | 1000 |
| 80 | 450 | 135 | 1030 |
| 81 | 462 | 110 | 1060 |
| 82 | 475 | 111 | 1350 |
| 83 | 487 | 112 | 1120 |
| 84 | 500 | 113 | 1150 |
| 85 | 515 | 114 | 1180 |
| 86 | 530 | 115 | 1215 |
| 87 | 545 | 116 | 1250 |
| 88 | 560 | 117 | 1285 |
| 89 | 580 | 118 | 1320 |
| 90 | 600 | 119 | 1360 |
| 91 | 615 | | |
| 92 | 630 | | |
| 93 | 650 | | |
- Mixing Tires
It is advisable not to mix different tire sizes or brand tires on the same axle, if not indicated by the tire or vehicle manufacturer, but use identical ones so as to keep the stability and safety of your vehicle.
The mixing of snow tires with summer, all season tires, of run-flat tires with non-run-flat tires on the same vehicle is not recommended under any circumstances.
If all tires of your vehicle get worn simultaneously, a new set of tires is required. This is important in order to keep the handling balance that is engineered into the vehicle, while restoring poor weather fraction. You can purchase the exact same set proposed by you vehicle manufacturer, or a similar alternative. The tire size, tread pattern, compound of the tire, and the performance category should be identical as the original tires.
- Mounting and Balancing
If you have decided to install new tires by yourself, read the below advices and have a look at "Tire &Wheel Package Installation" and "Proper Lug Nuts or Lug Bolts" for further information. The following recommendations are to be observed when mounting tires and wheels:
- Ask a professional to carry out the installing and balancing job!
- The wheel should have the right form and not be damaged.
- The tire beads must be securely mounted.
- No dirt between the hub and the wheel is allowed.
- The lugs must be correctly torqued.
- Make sure the wheel is securely seated on the hub.
Balancing means the distribution of the mass of the tire around the axle when mounted on its wheel and the car"s axle. Balanced tires can determine the quality of a driving experience. An out-of-balance tire can shorten the tires" durability, the life of bearings, shocks, and other suspension components. A vibration appearing at 40-45 mph increasing speed, is most likely related to speed or the fact that the tire and wheel assembly is not completely round. If this happens, contact the specialist to see, whether rebalancing will fix it.
Remember!
Only specialists should mount tires, so as to ensure safe operation. The tires should never exceed 40 psi (275 Kpa) and should be mounted only on designed diameter rims.
- Mounting New Tires on your Alloy Wheels
Custom alloy wheels can add a lot of flash to your car, but like most beautiful things, they require extra care. That doesn"t just mean cleaning and polishing, extra care should be taken during the mounting process as well.
Any wheels that are painted, chromed, or machined are far more susceptible to scratches and scrapes than regular steel wheels. Not to mention that these wheels are made with metals that are much softer than steel, so they bend more easily.
Some automobile tires now feature a ridge that helps shield expensive wheels from scraping against the curb. Likewise, modern mounting machines are padded to avoid scratching the wheels during the mounting process. Similarly, proper mounting machinery is specially designed to apply pressure equally to both sides of the tire at the same time to avoid unbalanced pressure that can warp the wheel.
Find a tire mechanic with know-how and experience. For instance, it is essential that the tire beads are properly lubricated during the mounting process. If the tire beads don’t seat on the wheel at 40 psi, the tire mechanic must stop the process and re-lubricate the beads.
Always choose a tire installation shop with experienced mechanics and an up-to-date shop.
- Original Equipment (OE) Tires
Your new car came with tires specifically chosen by the automobile manufacturer. Those tires weren"t picked just because they were the right size and a familiar brand. The manufacturer weighed the attributes of various tires and chose the best fit for your car"s performance profile.
If you have a high performance car, your tires were chosen for speed and handling. Certain touring cars are built for comfort, and the manufacturer called for tires that provide a smooth ride. Some energy efficient vehicles need special tires designed for less road resistance and better gas mileage.
Tires are designed with various combinations of already mentioned and other attributes. When your tires need to be replaced, many people believe, it makes sense to replace them with original equipment, to give you the ride and the performance that the automobile manufacturer intended.
Note: When you replace your tires, it is always best to put 4 new tires on your car. It is best to rotate your tires according to the manufacturer"s schedule, otherwise, your tires probably won"t wear at the same rate. If that"s the case, it"s okay to replace just the two in the front or the two in the back. For maximum safety, if you replace just two of the tires, it"s best to purchase the same tires that are already on your vehicle.
- P-Metric and Euro Metric Tire Sizes
P-Metric sized tires always have "P" at the beginning of their size description, such as P225/40 R18, while the Euro Metric tires just leave that out. Euro Metric tires are the older method for measuring tires, and began by using metric measurements for the tire"s width. P-Metric tires were introduced to the United States in the late 70s for passenger cars and light trucks, and use an engineering formula to calculate the tire load capacity. This helps car manufacturers design new vehicles with tire standards.
Euro Metric and P-Metric tires are identical in their dimensions, and have just small differences in the inflation pressure and load capacity designations. Therefore, if two tires have the same measurements, the same speed rating, and the same performance category, the two are considered the same, if used in pairings, or sets of four. Just follow your car maker"s inflation pressure recommendations.
- Performance description
This is a designation at the end of a tire size that combines the load index followed by a single letter referring to the speed rating. Using 25/40 R18 92W as an example, 92W is the Performance description, with:
- 92 as the Load index
- The load indices of tires for passenger cars and light trucks are typically between 70 and 110
- An index of 80 can carry 992 pounds, 90 can carry 1323 pounds etc.
- W as the speed rating
- This rating is designated by a letter from M up to Z, and applies ONLY to undamaged and properly maintained and inflated tires.
- M is for a maximum speed of 81mph.
- S & T rated tires are for maximum speeds of 112 and 118 mph respectively, and are often used on tires for family sedans and minivans
- V if for a maximum speed of 140 mph and can be seen often with Sports sedans and coupes
- W & Y ratings are for more exotic sports cars and carry maximum speeds of 168 and 186 mph respectively
- Z speed ratings is an older designation and means the tires is rated for speeds over 149 mph
"Load range" is a term that is synonymous with the term "ply rating" and is gradually replacing it. It relates to the actual load carrying capacity of the tire. The term refers to a specific tire with its maximum load as used in specific ways. Basically it is an index of tire strength and is expressed as a letter. The higher along the alphabet (A, B, C and up), the higher its load rating will be:
| Load Range | Ply Rating/Load Pressure |
| B | 4/35 |
| C | 6/50 |
| D | 8/65 |
| E | 10/80 |
| F | 12/95 |
The load-index figures imprinted on the sidewall of the tire denote the maximum load capacity of a tire when driven at a maximum speed. The list of load indices and corresponding maximum speeds are listed below:
| Li | kg | Li | kg |
| 65 | 290 | 94 | 670 |
| 66 | 300 | 95 | 690 |
| 67 | 307 | 96 | 710 |
| 68 | 315 | 97 | 730 |
| 69 | 325 | 98 | 750 |
| 70 | 335 | 99 | 775 |
| 71 | 345 | 100 | 800 |
| 72 | 355 | 101 | 825 |
| 73 | 365 | 102 | 850 |
| 74 | 375 | 103 | 875 |
| 75 | 387 | 104 | 900 |
| 76 | 400 | 105 | 925 |
| 77 | 412 | 106 | 950 |
| 78 | 425 | 107 | 975 |
| 79 | 237 | 108 | 1000 |
| 80 | 450 | 135 | 1030 |
| 81 | 462 | 110 | 1060 |
| 82 | 475 | 111 | 1350 |
| 83 | 487 | 112 | 1120 |
| 84 | 500 | 113 | 1150 |
| 85 | 515 | 114 | 1180 |
| 86 | 530 | 115 | 1215 |
| 87 | 545 | 116 | 1250 |
| 88 | 560 | 117 | 1285 |
| 89 | 580 | 118 | 1320 |
| 90 | 600 | 119 | 1360 |
| 91 | 615 | | |
| 92 | 630 | | |
| 93 | 650 | | |
The speed rating is designated by a letter from M up to Z, and applies ONLY to undamaged and properly maintained and inflated tires:
- M is for a maximum speed of 81mph.
- S & T rated tires are for maximum speeds of 112 and 118 mph respectively, and are often used on tires for family sedans and minivans
- V if for a maximum speed of 140 mph abd can be seen often with Sports sedans and coupes
- W & Y ratings are for more exotic sports cars and carry maximum speeds of 168 and 186 mph respectively
- Z speed ratings is an older designation and means the tires is rated for speeds over 149 mph
Speed Symbol
M | Max Speed km/h
140 | Max Speed Mph
81 |
| N | 140 | 87 |
| P | 150 | 93 |
| Q | 160 | 99 |
| R | 170 | 106 |
| S | 180 | 112 |
| T | 190 | 118 |
| H | 210 | 130 |
| V | 240 | 149 |
| W | 270 | 168 |
| Y | 300 | 186 |
| ZR | 240 | 149 |
- Plus Size Tires
Why upgrade to plus-size tires and wheels?
Two great answers: Great looks. Great handling.
Great looks because your car shows a lot of shiny wheel and a modern, low profile tire.
Great handling because you get a wider tire with a stronger grip on the road.
Plus-sizing involves combining larger wheels with shorter, wider tires. For example, if your car or truck usually requires a 17" wheel, you would increase it by an inch and purchase an 18" wheel. What this means is that the tire you purchase to match must have a shorter sidewall and wider tread to support the same load and tire diameter.
Many experts say that plus-sizing your tires can increase traction and handling. If you think about it, it makes sense that a wider tire would have a better hold on the road. Increasing by one inch is thought to provide the most benefit for the cost.
Some people go further, and want to plus-size their wheels an extra two or three inches. Or even more. That can be dangerous.
It"s safest to stay within one inch when you plus-size. When tires are too wide, they tend to graze or float on snowy roads rather than grip, which inevitably leads to slippage. You also end up with a much shorter tire sidewall, which gives less cushion, so it makes the wheel more vulnerable to damage when driving over ordinary potholes.
An important thing to note is that your tire"s load rating must meet the minimum of your factory-specified tire. To achieve this with plus-sized tires, you may be able to change the pressure.
- Purchasing Used Tires
Because of current economic worries, sales of used tires are booming. Unfortunately, some of those tires "boom" as well.
The big draw, of course, is is saving mone. Buyers usually hope to find a great deal on barely worn tires. Unfortunately, the complications involved often make the experience much more trouble than expected.
The used tire industry is largely unregulated. It"s very unlikely that you"ll get a warranty when you purchase a used tire. There are no real standards for selling used tires, and you could well end up with a product that is unsafe. Many used tires are repaired, repainted or patched up in a way that is undetectable to the naked eye. This makes it hard to notice if the tire is safe to drive on. Many of the used tire shops "self-regulate" leading to low standards for resale.
Rules and regulations for the sale of used tires are in the works. Eventually there will be a certified tire system to better guarantee the safety and longevity of used tires. These inspections will combine visual and internal reviews of each tire. Currently, visual reviews are the only way to gauge a tires wear and tear. And this isn"t enough to know whether or not a tire is safe.
Millions of tires sold annually are retreaded tires. This means that tires are remade from used tire rubber. These tires are much more legitimate that most used tires. They are regulated, tested and given a brand new serial number. These tires are as close as you can get to new; still they maintain a level of environmental sustainability by reusing old tire rubber.
If you"re in the market for tires. The easiest way to be sure that you"re making a safe purchase is to buy new ones. They"ll last longer, perform better, and you won"t be risking your life to save a few dollars.
If you"re looking to save money on new tires, try www.tires-easy.com . More brands and amazing deals!
- Repairing a Flat Tire
First off, don"t try it yourself. Bring your punctired tire to a professional. Tire repair service is inexpensive, but it has to be done right. (Your life may depend upon it.)
There are a few different ways to repair a flat tire. Most commonly, tires are repaired with a patch or plug. Run-flat tire actually repair themselves using a self-sealing method. (See Run-flat tires.)
Automotive repair shops often use patches to fix tires. Usually a mechanic will take a look at the tire to first determine whether or not it"s worth repairing. If the tire tread is too worn down, the mechanic will suggest purchasing a new tire. Additionally, there are other things the mechanic will consider when deciding to patch a tire. For example, is the new puncture too close to an old patch? Are there more than two patches already sealing the tire? Will the new patch be too close to the sidewall of the tire? A yes answer to any of these questions likely means that your tire is too worn down for repair, and that you would be better off purchasing a new tire all together.
To repair a tire using a patch, the tire must be removed from its wheel. The mechanic will then mark the spot where the tire is punctured. The puncture is removed and the surface is prepared using an angle grinder. Rubber cement is applied, followed by the patch itself. Once the tire is patched up and placed back on its wheel, you must re-balance the tire!
Using a plug alone is an easier repair method because you don"t have to actually remove the tire from its wheel. Once the puncture is removed, a rubber cement coated plug is inserted into the small opening. Plugs are slightly less reliable than patches; however, they"re more effective than tire sealant. How to get around that? There are products available that combine the plug with a patch.
- Run Flat Tires
Tires have always occupied a major place in giving a vehicle"s convenience and safety.
The tire manufacturers" constant engagement in research have upgraded tire durableness and lately have succeeded in designing tires which are able, for a limited time, to maintain vehicle mobility by using standard Original Equipment and aftermarket wheels. The run flat tires offer the driver the chance in deciding where to have tire repairs made.
It"s not the tires carrying the weight of the vehicle but the air inside them. The load capacity of a tire is determined by the following aspects: the size of the air chamber between the tire and wheel, the tire"s construction to hold air pressure, the amount of air pressure in the tire.
There are three basic technologies currently available to keep vehicle"s mobility when a tire is deflated: self-sealing, self-supporting and auxiliary -supported tires.
Self supporting tires are created with a stiffer internal construction that can temporarily bear the weight of the vehicle even when the pressure within the tire is greatly reduced. So as to provide self-supporting capacity, the tires attach rubber inserts next to or between layers of heat-resistant cord to prevent the breaking of reinforcing cords in case of loss of air pressure. The bead around the edge of the tire is also specialized to grip the wheel rim such as to avoid becoming detached from the rim. Besides, they feature beads that allow the tire to strongly grip current Original Equipment and aftermarket wheels even in the event of air loss. Self supporting tires require a tire pressure monitoring system to alert the driver that they have lost air pressure so as to avoid further tire damage by failing to inflate or repair the tire. Generally, self-supporting tires provide for the vehicle to drive for 50 miles at around 50 miles per hour
Self-Sealing tires are built to permanently fix most tread punctures. The tires contain an extra lining within the tire that self-seals in the event of a small hole due to a nail, bolts or screw up to 3/16 of inch in diameter. They provide a seal around the object when the tire is punctured and then fill out the small hole in the tread when the object is removed. This way, the loss of air is prevented from the outset such that the tire is either permanently self-repairing or at least loses air very slowly. Self-sealing tires do not require a low air pressure warning system.
Auxiliary Supported Systems combine special wheels and tires used for Original Equipment vehicle applications. In the auxiliary supported systems, the flat tires tread rests on a support ring attached to the wheel when the tire loses pressure this type of system offers the advantage of placing most of the mechanical task, thus providing run flat capability on the wheel and minimizes the responsibility of the tire. These systems generally offer better ride quality because of their sidewall"s stiffness, which can be equivalent to a standard tire, but the requirement to have both unique wheels and special tires and limit them from widespread use. Example: Michelin"s PAX System wheels and tires
- Selecting the Right Tires
It is crucial to choose an appropriate type of tires for your vehicle. Below are listed several recommendations that will help you make a good selection or tires suitable for your car:
- All the tires on your car should be as similar as possible, so as to avoid handling problems and maintain the performance of your vehicle. For example, one end of your vehicle may not respond as fast as the other one does, thus making the vehicle more difficult to control.
- If one tire needs replacement, it should be changed with a tire that perfectly matches the others as far as the brand, line, size and speed rating are concerned.
- When changing two tires because of damage or worn out, the replacements must be placed on the rear axle. Choose some tires that best suit the current ones. Identical new tires would be the best choice, but others of the same type, size can fit well.
- When it comes about replacing all four tires, you can freely make a choice from another tire category. For longer lasting tires providing a smoother ride, optimized performance, you should search for a category description that meets your expectations. If you like and wish to stick to the original type, just replace them.
(a) The right size for your vehicle Switching to tires of a different size than the original equipment may have serious implications, and is not recommended.
The most important feature of the tire you select is the ability to carry the weight of the car. NEVER undersize!
The other thing to be considered is the overall tire diameter. A 3% diameter change is preferable for cars and vans. Sport utility vehicles and pick-ups are generally designed to handle up to a 15% oversize tire. By checking "Calculating the Tire Dimension" you can find information on how to calculate your tire dimension. A 3% diameter increase or decrease in tire diameter may look like limiting, but in many of the cases, it permits about a 3/4" change in diameter.
We have created the Plus Sizing System for your convenience, so as to help you selecting the appropriate tire width that ensures adequate load capacity, by taking into account the diameters of the available tires and wheels.
(b) Summer, Winter or All-season tires?
Different driving conditions require different types of tires. To fully and successfully meet each of the driving conditions requirements - be it sunny, rainy, or snowy weather - you should decide based on a performance category. If you are going to use summer tires in the summer and snow tires in the winter, you can choose those that best meet your expectations. When selecting one set of tires for all year round, you will likely get a high quality drive all year around, however, your vehicle"s capacity will be compromised under the worst weather conditions.
For short trips, almost any tire is acceptable. If you drive your vehicle in the city or in the freeways, you will be pleased with tires that are sensitive and highly responsive. If you drive mostly on interstate highways, you will need long-lasting, quiet, and smooth tires. For fast driving on twisting roads, you should select a tire that features good handling. If you drive on autocross events, you will desire the best competition tires.
Always balance the requirements of your driving conditions. If you get snow infrequently, you may want to select an all-season tire. If you often drive under worse weather conditions, or ones different than those you are familiar with, you should think about selecting two sets of tires. Each set will be designed to meet the particular weather conditions, and thereby fulfill your expectations under any weather conditions.
(c) Price versus Value
You may wonder why the price of tires exceeds the cost of fuel for your vehicle. When purchasing tires for your vehicle, you should think about the purchase as a long term investment in the quality of your drive, and evaluating the cost in terms of "tire per mile". Why? By systematically tracing our total cost, we found that the total fuel costs of 10-20 thousand miles surpass an average tire price. In this context, it should be emphasized that the quality of your drive is very closely connected with the performance of your tires. In fact, the correlation between the overall quality of your drive and the performance of your tires is much greater, than the one between the quality of your drive and the type of fuel that you use.
- Sidewall Markings
The manufacturer provides us with a lot of information on the tires" sidewalls, most related to the their basic dimensions, identifying the week of production, the materials used to strengthen the rubber, the load, and tire"s maximum inflation pressures. Some other information confirms that the tires meet diverse industry standards and government regulations of the nations, in which they are used.
The List of Used Sidewalk Markings is provided below:
| Marking | display on tires-easy |
| BCS | Black Circumferencial Serration |
| BL | Blackwall |
| BSL | Black Serrated Letters |
| BSW | Blackwall |
| RBT | Raised Black Letters |
| BSS | Blackwall |
| BLK | Blackwall |
| BSB | Borken Serrated Band |
| DSB | Diagonal Serrated Band |
| XNW | Extra Narrow White |
| ENWL | Extra Narrow White Letters |
| OWT | Outlined White Letters |
| OBL | Outlined Black Letters |
| OGL | Outlined Gold Letters |
| ORBL | Outlined Raised Black Letters |
| ORWL | Outlined Raised White Letters |
| OWLS | Outlined White Letters |
| OWL | Outlined White Letters |
| RBL | Raised Black Letters |
| BLT | Raised Black Letters |
| ROBL | Raised Outlined Black Letters |
| ROWL | Raised Outlined White Letters |
| RSB | Raised Serrated Band |
| RWL | Raised White Letters |
| RRBL | Recessed Raised Black Letters |
| SBL | Serrated Black Letters |
| SRBL | Serrated Raised Black Letters |
| SOWL | Slanted Outlined White Letters |
| SVSB | Slanted Vertical Serrated Band |
| VSB | Vertical Serrated Band |
| WLT | White Letters |
| WL | White Letters |
| WSW | White Wall |
| WSS | White Wall |
| WS | White Stripe |
| WW | White Wall |
- Spare Tires
Always carry a spare tire in your car! A flat tire can leave you stranded, especially if you"re on a long drive or road trip outside city limits. Most vehicles come equipped with a spare tire and wheel. But knowing how to use your spare tire is crucial. Some spare tires are not meant to last for long distances, and some even have a maximum speed capacity. Be familiar with the limits of your spare tire.
- A full-size spare tire and wheel is just like any of your other tires. Most people don"t carry a full-size spare tire because it takes up a lot of vehicle storage space. These tires are, however, very versatile. Using a full-size spare tire allows you to operate your vehicle just as you would with your original full set of tires. You can even throw the spare tire into your rotation sequence, which helps keep all the tires lasting longer. When you go to replace your tires, you can purchase in a set of five, keeping one tire at a time stored in the vehicle in case of emergency. Full-size spare tires allow you to drive as far, fast and for as long as you like.
- Another option is a full-size temporary spare tire. These tires accurately match the original tire dimensions, but they"re usually made out of lightweight materials that won"t hold up over long distances. These tires are intended for use only in emergencies as a temporary replacement.
- The most common spare tires are compact temporary spares. They usually come from the manufacturer at the time the vehicle is purchased. These tires are specially designed to fit the vehicle they accompany. Never attempt to use a compact temporary spare on another vehicle. It could be dangerous and might damage the vehicle. The smaller dimensions of these tires require them to inflate at a higher air pressure than the rest of your tires. Compact temporary spares are meant to get you from the side of the road to a tire dealer that can replace or fix your flat tire.
Helpful Tips
Learn how to change your tire before you find yourself on the side of the road with a flat. Store your spare tire tool kit in your vehicle next to your properly inflated spare tire. Being prepared for an emergency is the best way to ensure a safe and easy drive.
- Specific Mileage Warranties
Tread-wear warranties seem have a limited warranty, and the consumer has to fulfill maintenance requirements to keep them in force. The tread-wear warranty applies to the original owner and the original vehicle only. The consumer is asked for the proof of purchase and the original installation date, as well as documentation that the tires were correctly inflated, rotated, and aligned, and that worn suspension components were replaced. If the tires" worn appearance shows that they were not kept in proper condition, the tire manufacturer will reject the Tread-wear warranty.
How do consumers receive their value, if the tires were properly maintained?
Today, the majority mileage tread-wear warranties vary from a low of 30,000 miles to a high of 80,000 miles. If the tread depth was worn down to 2/32 of an inch in 30,000 miles on a tire with a 40,000 mile tread-wear warranty, the consumers would be offered a new set of tires of the same brand that would be discounted from their current retail price by 25% (prorating the 10,000 of the 40,000 miles of wear they did not receive). The consumer is then required to pay the difference between the warranted mileage and the mileage actually received as they purchase their replacement tires.
If the tires wear out within 3 years from the date of purchase, the consumer is required to pay 50% of the current retail price for Bridgestone and Goodyear tires, and a proportional cost based on the number of months of actual service received vs. the 72 months (6 years) warranted by Michelin.
Another issue some consumers may raise regarding the mileage warranties is that the tires must be worn down to the tread-wear indicators before replacement under the warranty. The tires must be at or near the 2/32 inch of remaining tread depth which is the minimum allowable legal tread depth, as when tires are "worn out." The problem the consumer may deal with is the treadwear warranty against traction.
- Speed Rating
This rating is designated by a letter from M up to Z, and applies ONLY to undamaged and properly maintained and inflated tires:
- M is for a maximum speed of 81mph.
- S & T rated tires are for maximum speeds of 112 and 118 mph respectively, and are often used on tires for family sedans and minivans
- V if for a maximum speed of 140 mph abd can be seen often with Sports sedans and coupes
- W & Y ratings are for more exotic sports cars and carry maximum speeds of 168 and 186 mph respectively
- Z speed ratings is an older designation and means the tires is rated for speeds over 149 mph
| Speed Symbol M | Max Speed km/h | Max Speed Mph |
| M | 140 | 81 |
| N | 140 | 87 |
| P | 150 | 93 |
| Q | 160 | 99 |
| R | 170 | 106 |
| S | 180 | 112 |
| T | 190 | 118 |
| H | 210 | 130 |
| V | 240 | 149 |
| W | 270 | 168 |
| Y | 300 | 186 |
| ZR | 240 | 149 |
- Storing Tires
To correctly store tires that will not be used continuously, we recommend the following:
- Never store a vehicle with weight on its tires for long periods of time.
- Avoid direct sunlight on tires whenever possible.
- Clean each tire from brake dust, dirt and grime, before storing.
- Do not apply tire dressings on them.
- Avoid any moisture and remove as much air as practical, and place each tire in its airtight plastic bag for storing to help reduce oil evaporation and then cover the sealed bag with a Tire Tote.
- Store white-to-white and black-to-black tires to prevent staining the white rubber, if not kept in plastic bags.
- Stack all tires white sidewall up to allow the oils from each tire"s black sidewall to migrate into the white rubber of the tire below it.
- Keep the tires in a cool, dry places preferably in a dry basement or climate-controlled workshop to avoid hot and cold temperatures, as well as seasonal precipitation and humidity.
- Store the tires away from sources of ozone, devices such as motors, furnace, sump pump
- Do not store the tires near sources of ozone. Keep your tires away from the furnace, sump pump, etc.
While tires will age somewhat regardless of what precautions are taken, these procedures will help slow the process compared to taking no precautions at all.
- Studdable Tires
If you drive through ice and snow, you should consider studdable winter tires. Studdable tires can be driven safely and effectively with or without the studs. Even without the studs, studdable tires give great traction.
Warning: Once you drive on studdable tires without the studs, you will no longer be able to put studs on that tire.
Studded tires were introduced in the 1960s to allow for more traction on slick ice. They come equipped with metal holes molded into the tires. If the driver chooses, metal studs can be screwed into the holes for to cut into the ice and into the road.
The weight of the vehicle presses the studs into the icy road for greater stability. The problem with studs is that when the road is not snowy or icy, they can cause damage by digging into the actual surface of the road. Also, because the metal studs aren"t soft like rubber compound, there is less contact with the road, so it can take longer to stop with studded tires on a normal dry road.
For this reason, many states have banned studded tires except during peak winter season. You can actually get a traffic ticket for driving studded tires during the off-season, so be careful! Always check the rules of your state.
- The Law
- Tires on cars, light vans (not exceeding gross weight) and light trailers must have a tread depth of at least 1.6 millimeters across the central three-quarters of the breadth and in a continuous band around the entire circumference of the tire.
- Tires must be suitable (i.e. of the correct specification and size) for the intended use of the vehicle. Additionally, tires must be inflated to the manufacturers" recommended pressures.
- Tires of different types must not be fitted to opposite wheels of the vehicle (for example, radial-ply tires must not be fitted to a wheel on the same axle as wheels already fitted with cross-ply tires and vice versa. A two-axle vehicle must not have radial ply tires on the front axle if cross ply tires are fitted to the rear axle.)
- No tire must have a break in its fabric or a cut deep enough to reach the body cords. No cut must be more than 25 millimeters or 10% of the tire"s section width, whichever is greater.
- There must be no lump, bulge or tear caused by separation or partial fracture of its structure, neither must any portion of the ply or cord structure be exposed.
- The Life of a Tire
It is quite simple to establish when a tire was manufactured, by following the Tire Identification Number, which is the batch code marked on the tire sidewall referring to the week and the year of manufacture.
As per the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) requirements, the Tire Identification Numbers combines the letters DOT, and a grouping of numbers and letters with up to 12 digits, designating the location of production, tire size and manufacturer"s code, date of manufacturing.
Ever since 2000 and up to now, the last four digits of the Tire Identification Number have indicated the week and year the tire was built (2 digits indentifying the week, the other 2 the year). The complete Tire Identification Number has been generally requested to be marked on one sidewall, but according to the current regulations, the DOT and the first digits of the Tire Identification Number must be molded on the opposite sidewall as well.
For tires manufactured before the year 2000, a three-digit code was used (first two numbers indicate the week, while the last number, the year). Tires manufactured in the 1990s may carry a little triangle (Δ) that should be found after the DOT code and identifies the decade.
- Tire Age and Wear
Over the years, it has become clear that tires can" age out" as well as they wear out. The U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration and tire manufacturers are currently studying the many variables on how long will tires last before aging out. Environmental conditions like exposure to sunlight and coastal climates, as well as poor storage and infrequent use, accelerate the aging process, but the issue of how to confirm and quantify the aging still remains.
As a general rule, most street tires" useful life is between six to ten years. Compounds containing anti-oxidizing chemicals are used to slow down the natural aging process of rubber, so a tire that has been correctly stored for long periods should still meet the specifications and performance characteristics of a new tire. But those ten years include storage time before the tire is mounted on a car. In practice, you can generally use your new tire for one to five years, depending upon how you drive and whether the tire is properly stored when not in use. There are other factors. Some tires are designed with a more aggressive road-hugging compound, and these have shorter lives. Tire mileage, or how much you use your tire each year, is obviously a major factor as well. ??Tires that are warehoused correctly are still considered new, even after several years, and it is normal practice in the United States for both the tire manufacturers and tire dealers to sell new tires that were manufactured during the last few years. It is not until they are subjected to sunlight and heat and pressure from the environment that they really begin to degrade. In fact, after they are manufactured, if tires are correctly stored, they improve with age for a while as the rubber compound has a chance to harden further before being exposed to the rigors of the road. However, we now believe that there are limits to how long a tire can sit in storage before small molecular changes cause the rubber compound to begin to degrade. The NHTSA is studying this phenomenon, but they have not yet reached a conclusion.
Your tire’s age can be identified by the “DOT” date code on the sidewall which tells you not only the year the tire was manufactured but also in which calendar week within that year.
- Tire Blow-outs
At some point or another, you may have experienced a blow-out , or maybe you"ve watched helplessly as another vehicle pops a tire, losing all its air pressure and veering off the road. The term "blow-out" generally refers to a tire that bursts, losing all of its air pressure. People often assume that this happens when there is too much air pressure pressing against the internal walls of a tire. This; however, is not usually the case. Tires typically blow-out when air pressure is low. The low air pressure in the tire creates too much elasticity. Eventually the rubber overheats and loses its bond to the tire"s internal structure.
Prevent yourself from experiencing a blow-out! You don"t need that bit of excitement. Most blowouts occur when a vehicle is overloaded, involved in a collision or when tires are punctured. Even a slight puncture can create a slow leak over time, which reduces air pressure and can lead to a blow-out. Avoid putting more weight in your vehicle then your owner"s manual recommentds tom keep a safe level of elasticity. Obviously, you should avoid accidents. Drive defensively, not offensively! Be careful to keep an eye out for potholes and road debris.
It"s important to react appropriately, should the unexpected tire blowout occur. Most people tend to hit the brakes and turn off to the side of the road. That, in fact, can be a deadly reaction that could lead to loss of vehicle control because your tire is no longer bearing its portion of the car"s weight. When you hear the loud noise and feel the steering wheel lunge to the side during a tire blowout, don"t hityopur brakes immediately, it"s important to keep your forward motion to give your vehicle some power to continue going straight ahead. This will help you to stay in your lane and maintain control long enmough to get a feel about how the blown out tire is trying to pull you off to the side, so can compensate and steer safely to the side of the road.
- Tire Construction
Have you ever given much thought to how your tires are made? You probably think of tires as a simple product, easily manufactured for public consumption. Tires are in fact quite complex. They are sophisticated products that require a great amount of durability and strength. They must contain high-pressure air while simultaneously enduring the weight of a heavy car filled with passengers and their belongings. They also need to be strong enough to hold up under both the blistering heat of a hot desert road and the freezing temperatures of a n icy winter. Research and development for tires can take years. And the process of actually making each tire is very involved.
In order to construct a radial tire, the manufacturer first starts by combining raw chemicals including sulfur, carbon black and solvents with both natural and synthetic rubber. A machine called a banbury mixes the chemicals together. The banbury also heats the rubber into a malleable form. At this stage the product becomes a long, flat band of rubber.
Several machines work the rubber until it forms different components of the tire. These components include the tread, ply, belts, beads, sidewalls and inner liner. Once these six components are complete, the tire-building machine assembles them into an uncured tire in two separate stages.
The bones of the tire - the beads, plies, sidewalls and liner - are constructed on one side of the tire-building machine. The tread and belts are assembled on the other side. The two sections of the tire are then combined to create a green tire. This doesn"t actually mean the color green, but rather the raw form of the tire in its soft rubber form.
The process of vulcanization is initiated next. In this phase of production, the soft rubber is changed into the tough, durable tires we"re used to seeing as the finished product. This happens when the green tire is submerged into a curing mold followed by exposure to intense pressure and high heat. At the same time, the tire"s tread pattern in sealed onto the rubber. After a final finish and inspection, the tire is ready to hit the market.
- Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems Mandate (TPMS)
You have probably experienced walking to your own car only to notice that one of your tires seems to be bulging out more than the others. You wonder to yourself whether or not the tire is low on air, but you can’t quite tell. Because the low tire pressure isn’t obvious, you get in your car and go on with your day, forgetting about your tire in a matter of minutes. Don’t forget! In this situation, the slight inconvenience of filling your tire with the correct air pressure could save you from an accident, or from getting a full-blown flat tire on the road.
Most of the time people don’t even notice when their tires are running low on air. This is why the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has implemented a Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard requiring all vehicles to install a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS), which alerts the driver when tire pressure is low
Tires are somewhat delicate to the environment around them. If a tire is active on low air pressure, the rubber stretches past its natural elastic limit. Once the rubber and the steel reinforcement cords begin to give way, the tire becomes weakened. Eventually it gives out completely. It’s important to note that a tire running on low air pressure will definitely weaken over time. Once this happens, the tire will never return to its original strength. If a tire runs flat for a period of time, it should be replaced in order to avoid a future accident. Using TPMS is a fantastic way to prolong the life of your tires. It also helps keep you safe, avoiding accidents and unexpected blow-out tires
Driving on tires with too little air pressure is common. A big problem with this is that your vehicle doesn’t drive as efficiently when air pressure is low. Driving on tires with low air pressure reduces tire durability and diminishes your vehicle’s fuel economy. This means that you wind up using more gasoline to drive a shorter distance. This, in addition to safety concerns, is why the U.S. government initiated legislation mandating tire pressure monitoring systems.
- Tire Tread
Getting familiar with tire tread styles will help you to better understand your tires. It may even give you some savvy comparison-shopping skills when it comes to your next tire purchase. Tire tread patterns are made up of continuous ribs, tread blocks, lateral grooves and thin sipes that are used to help with noise control and traction. Tread patterns are designed and selected in a way that best fits the intended use of the tire.
Symmetric tread patterns have either continuous ribs or independent tread blocks across the entire face. This allows for both the inboard and outboard halves to feature the same pattern. Most tires are designed with symmetric tread patterns. These tires perform best in dry weather and when driven at faster speeds.
Asymmetric tread patterns are intended for dry grip, water dispersal and snow traction. Along the face of the tire, the pattern changes and is less consistent compared to a symmetric tire. Tread ribs are usually larger, which gives greater cornering stability. The inboard side usually features smaller tread blocks. These tires are designed for use in harsh weather conditions such as rain or snow.
Directional tread patterns were created to resist hydroplaning. Their tread patterns are designed to push water out from underneath the tire. These tires are meant to roll in one direction only. Lateral grooves along the tire"s center point in the same direction creating a V shape. Be careful when rotating these tires! The V shape must only go in one direction. It"s fine to rotate your front tire to the back on the same side of your vehicle, but rotating tires to the opposite side won"t allow the tire to perform with the tread pattern moving forward.
Lastly, some tires feature tire tread patterns that are both asymmetric and directional. What this means is that they still have the V-shaped tread, but the pattern is then altered to create even more road grip. These tires are meant to provide heavy-duty traction.
- Tire Warranties
Each manufacturer establishes the period of time they repair or replace defective products due to materials and workmanship. Tires are typically backed by their manufacturer"s limited warranties for a period of 4 to 6 years from the date of purchase or until the tread wears out.
The duration of the tires" limited warranty is specified by each manufacturer. Tire warranties begin at the time of delivery for new vehicles, and at the time of purchase for replacements. As a result, a new vehicle"s registration certificate or the replacement tire"s sales invoice will establish proof of ownership and the tire"s in-service date. If no proof of purchase is available, the week and year the tire was manufactured will be used.
When the tire"s original tread is worn down to 2/32nds of an inch (1.6 mm) of remaining tread, tire warranties also expire.
Tread-life Warranties
Due to the variety of driving surfaces and conditions and geographic influences in the United States, not all consumers receive the warranted treadlife mileage. As the vehicle manufacturers decide not to purchase the original equipment from the tire manufacturers, treadlife/mileage warranties do not apply to tires fitted as Original Equipment on new vehicles. Treadlife warranties on replacement tires only hold for the original owner and vehicle upon which the set of tires was initially mounted.
Uniformity Warranty
Tire balance and internal forces are measured during a tire"s final inspection at the factory. Therefore, remember that none of the tire manufacturers accepts the idea that all four tires from the same vehicle are out-of-round or responsible for a vibration.
If a new tire contributes to a vehicle ride disturbance because of materials or workmanship, it will be corrected as soon as possible and replaced before the first 1/32- to 2/32-inch of treadwear or during the first year of service.
Ride disturbances that occur after this initial period are connected to road hazard damage or irregular wear stemming from the vehicle"s mechanical condition and/or lack of routine maintenance.
Workmanship & Materials Warranty
In the first year of ownership or 25% of the tire"s treadwear, the tire will be exchanged free of charge for the customer, excluding freight. For the rest of the tire"s warranty period, the cost of replacement is prorated by crediting the owner for the percentage of service not received.
Manufacturer Road Hazard Warranty
No tire is indestructible, thereof while road hazard injuries or impact damage caused by potholes, curbs or other objects in the road, the tire damage they inflict is not within the control of the tire manufacturer and is not typically covered by their limited tire warranties. Only some tires remain backed by a tire manufacturer road hazard warranty, such as Michelin"s ZP Assurance Plan covering Michelin Self-Supporting Zero Pressure (ZP) run flat tires. But because many drivers desire the financial security that a road hazard program provides, tires-easy offers an economically priced, optional Tire Road Hazard Service Program to our retail customers.
Manufacturer Special Warranty - 15 days Test Drives/Trials
A retail customer can return the unwanted tires within 30 days of purchase for a full refund or exchange. (Freight excluded). Proof of purchase is requested.
The 15 days Test Drives/Trials do not cover the tires received as original equipment on new vehicles.
- Trailer Tires
Trailer tires are built to carry heavier loads than automobile tires, but they are specifically built for trailers. Don"t mount them on your car!
Trailers are more susceptible to sway, so they tend to swerve and destabilize while on the road. In large part, this is because of the less sophisticated suspension systems designed for trailers, but it also has to do with the heavier weight that trailer tires endure. Trailer tires must be built especially strong to manage much heavier loads than typical passenger or light truck tires. The requirements for trailer tires are unique, and their bias ply construction is specifically designed for strength.
Your car uses radial tires, which are built to hold steady traction in all sorts of driving and weather conditions. For cars, the sidewalls must be very flexible so your tires can maintain a good grip on the road. Automotive radial tires are great for your car, but because the sidewalls aren"t stiff, they can"t carry really heavy loads.
Trailers on the other hand, do not have any driving torque applied to their axles. They don"t careen around turns or weave in and out of traffic. Trailer tires only need to maintain traction when the driver brakes to stop or slow down.
In this case a stronger, bias ply tire is more necessary than a flexible, radial tire. Flexible sidewalls would create even more trailer sway and instability. Bias ply tires are constructed with cords woven across the tire from bead to bead. They also have consistent ply at the tread and sidewalls. This construction technique creates stiffer and stronger sidewalls, giving trailers the robust support needed to keep from swaying and destabilizing on the road.
- Ultra High Performance Tires
Ultra High Performance tires, known as UHP tires, will dress up your car and bring a new driving experience.
These are the low profile tires that make your custom wheels look so great, and because there is less cushion than with traditional tires, they allow the driver to really feel the road. If you are a Sunday driver that only cares about a cushy ride, UHP tires aren"t for you. UHP tires are for those who love to drive, and want a more tactile driving experience.
UHP tires are designed for fast speeds, and are meant to accompany a sporty driving style. Their soft rubber compound gives improved traction. This works especially well for maintaining control when taking turns and corners at higher speeds. As with all high-speed tires, the soft rubber doesn"t as hold a long tread life as other tires, which means that UHP tires need to be replaced more frequently.
Some UHP tires have shallow water channels because the tread is designed to touch more of the road"s surface, providing a better grip when roads are dry. Because of this, if you"re in the market for high performance tires, it is important to remember that it is a good idea to purchase separate tire sets to match seasonal changes.
High Performance Summer Tires
Ultra high performance summer tires are made for sporty driving enthusiasts. They are for drivers who want the best performance on dry roads. Don"t forget to take these tires off your vehicle before winter! These tires do very poorly in snow and ice, and could actually be quite dangerous if left on your vehicle during peak winter months.
High Performance All-Season Tires
During the colder months, if you want to avoid the sticky grip of a standard winter tire, but need the traction for rain, snow and ice, you may want to consider getting a set of UHP all-season tires. With these tires, you get all-season versatility, although not the heavy-duty traction that would be provided by a winter tire. This is why, depending on the weather conditions where you live, it"s important to consider your own seasonal needs. With current tire construction capabilities, it"s simply impossible to get an ultra high performance, fast road tire that also acts as a heavy-duty snow tire. But with the merging of high performance and traction, high performance all-season tires come the closest.
- UTQG: The Uniform Tire Quality Grading System
To help consumers evaluate their tires, the U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) created the Uniform Tire Quality Grading System (UTQG). The UTQG rates tires are rated on their tread-wear, traction performance, and temperature resistance. The grade for each of these can be found on the sidewall of your tire (except for winter tires and certain light truck tires).
Tread-wear
The UTQG tread-wear grade indicates how long your tire tread will last in relation to other tires. For instance, a tire with a grade of 400 will last twice as long as a tire with a grade of 200, according to how it performed in the tread-wear test. Note: Actual tire performance can differ greatly for many reasons, including driving style, climate, tire inflation and vehicle weight.
Traction
The UTQG traction grade rates the ability of your tire to stop on wet pavement. Traction performance is assigned one of the following grades, which you will find on the sidewall of your tire:
AA, A, B, C. Tires with an AA grade stop the fastest on wet pavement, C graded tires the slowest.
CAUTION: The UTQG traction tests do not test tires for cornering, acceleration, driving at high speed or driving on dry roads. Tires are tested with straight ahead braking only.
Temperature
The UTQG temperature grade indicates the ability of your tire to dissipate the heat generated by driving. Over time, heat can cause damage to your tires. Temperature resistance is given one of A, B or C grade, which you can locate on the sidewall of your tire. All tires sold in the United States must have at least a C rating.
CAUTION: The tires in UTQG tests were inflated properly and the vehicles were not overloaded. Excessive heat can be produced by under-inflation of your tires, driving at high speed, driving an overloaded vehicle, and certain road and weather conditions.
- Wheel Alignment and Balancing
A major cause of rapid tread wear is improper wheel alignment and balancing. Abnormal noise, vibration and harshness of steering are a signal that alignment and balancing may be improper.
- When Should I Replace My Tires?
The U.S. law for most states holds that tires are legally worn out when they have worn down to 2/32" of remaining tread depth. It is important to acknowledge that when tire wears out its capacity to perform in the rain and snow will diminish. At 2/32" of remaining tread depth, resistance to hydroplaning in wet conditions has been reduced, and traction in snow has been removed.
If driving on rain and wet roads, you should think about changing your tires when they reach approximately 4/32" of remaining tread depth. You need enough tread depth to disperse water through the tire"s grooves. Otherwise the vehicle"s tires will lose traction.
When driving in snow, you should consider changing the tires when they reach approximately 6/32" of remaining tread depth, in order to maintain a good stability. More tread depth is needed in snow, as the tires need to compress it in their grooves and release it while rolling. If not enough tread depth is remaining, the traction will be substantially diminished.
Tread depth is an important element for snow traction, thus winter tires are equipped with tread depths deeper than standard all-season or summer tires. Some winter tires even have a series of wear bars molded in their tread pattern indicating approximately 6/32" remaining tread depth.
The usual method of determining when it"s the right time to get new tires is the Lincoln penny tread depth test. If your tread gets below 2/32 "your tires" ability to grip the road in unfavorable conditions is greatly reduced.
The traction between the tires and the road provides the driver the ability to have a control over the vehicle. Tires do not need tread designs or much tread depth to create traction on dry roads but do require tread designs to channel water and slush from between the tire and the road, as well as provide edges with good grip on snow.
While driving at high speeds, the air the tires encounter can easily be compressed and moved out, but not the same thing applies to the liquids. The tires" tread designs and tread depths as well as the adverse rainy conditions depths decide if the tires are forced to hydroplane and how quickly they can stop a vehicle.
A general passenger car tire begins with about 1/3" of tread depth and a footprint surface of around twenty inches the most of it being composed of rubber that grasps the road and grooves that create the tread design. The tire tread will slowly wear away and the amount of grooves reduce without even observing until the point the car will not stop on wet short distance roads.
You should think about replacing your tires when they reach about 4/32" of remaining tread depth in case of rain and wet roads, and change them when they get to about 6/32" of remaining tread depth in case of snowy roads for the good tire adhesion performance and good mobility of your vehicle.
Always replace the tires before the legal limit so as not to compromise your safety and save the money you would loose for repairing!
- Winter tires (also called snow tires)
Most winter tires now display the snowflake symbol on the sidewall. That snowflake is an industry certification that means your tires will attain a higher level of traction in ice and packed snow than conventional tires.
Some winter tires do not yet carry the snowflake symbol.
Winter tires perform better in winter conditions for two reasons:
First, winter tread patterns are designed to bite into snow and ice for a better grip.
Second, winter tires are generally made from special rubber compounds with microporous silicon which enables them to stay soft and pliable even in sub-zero conditions. Tires made from traditional tire compound become hard and brittle in the snow.
We strongly recommend that you drive with winter tires if you must go out in extreme conditions. If your tires can"t grab the road, it makes no difference that you have all wheel drive, anti-lock brakes, or electronic stability control. Safety begins with your tires.
Winter Tire questions and answers
a) Can I mount just two winter tires on my car?
Absolutely not. It is dangerous to put snow tires on just the drive wheels of your car.
The whole point of winter tires is to make sure your tires can grab the road. If you have front wheel drive and put winter tires on just the front wheels, they will pull the car forward, but your back wheels won"t have as much traction. That means that if you brake or corner, your car is much more likely to spin out.
On the other hand, if you have rear wheel drive, and put winter tires only on your rear wheels, you might turn your steering wheel to corner only to find your car continuing to shoot forward! That"s because your front wheels can"t grip the road and just skid forward.
Always put winter tires on all four wheels!
b) Can I safely use my all-season tires in snow and ice?
No. All-Season tires are not designed for snow and ice.
All-season tires are designed to grip both wet and dry roads around turns, and to expel water to resist hydroplaning. But they are not made with the high-silicon rubber compound necessary for winter conditions.
Therefore, all-season tires get harder and less pliable in low temperatures. They can"t hold the road like winter tires, which are softer.
c) Can I use my M+S (mud and snow) tires in winter?
There is no official definition for M+S tires, although they generally have deep knobby tread patterns to help dig their way through mush. Tire manufacturers add the M+S designation to such tires to better market them. This is an old-fashioned design, and can help when driving over snow. However, for true winter performance, make sure the tire is also considered a winter tire, engineered to stay pliable and non-brittle in extreme cold.
Note: The various tire manufacturers use slightly different mud and snow designations on their sidewalls: M+S, M&S, MS etc.
d) Can I drive with my winter tires all year round?
Yes, but we don"t recommend it.
For one thing, winter tires are noisy because of their toothy tread patterns. More important, they are softer, as described above, and will wear down faster than regular tires, especially on hot summer roads.
You need that deep tread to be effective in winter, to bite into the ice and snow.
e) Should I use studded tires in winter?
The answer depends upon the specific winter conditions where you live. Studded tires can be helpful in some conditions, but they can decrease safety in others.
Studded tires might give you extra traction on ice and snow, but less traction on wet and dry roads. That"s because the studs can reduce the surface area where the rubber tire tread contacts the road, which means you would need a longer stopping distance on wet or dry roads than with non-studded tires.
Studded tires are also noisy, and they cause more damage to the road surface.
Make sure you check that studded tires are legal to use in your area before purchasing them. Several states forbid the use of studded tires, and others only allow them to be used during certain months.
